There are steakhouses, and then there is Macellaio RC Soho – a self-declared “butchery with tables” that wears its devotion to beef like a badge of honour. On Shaftesbury Avenue, amid the bright lights of theatreland, this Italian temple of meat feels entirely at home.
Dark wood panelling, green leather seating and walls dressed in posters from neighbouring stages create a space that hums with anticipation.
At its heart sits a dramatic horseshoe bar and central grill, where flame and flesh perform nightly. It is unabashedly, gloriously, a carnivore’s paradise.
The experience begins before you even sit down. At the entrance, glass-fronted maturation fridges showcase hulking cuts of beef in various stages of dry-ageing. This is no mere storage solution – it is theatre.
The art of maturation breaks down amino acid chains, intensifying umami and coaxing tenderness from muscle. It is a reminder that here, beef is not just served; it is revered.
Macellaio RC works exclusively with two breeds: its signature Italian Marango and carefully selected Lake District cattle. The Marango, a cross between Angus Aberdeen and Maremmana, is raised wild before being finished on a certified plant-based Marango Fioc diet designed to enhance the nutritional profile of the meat by increasing Omega-3 and reducing Omega-6 levels.
Born and raised in Norchia, an area rich in natural minerals, the cattle benefit from the land’s unique qualities, which help develop the exceptional flavour of the meat. Marango beef is distinguished by its darker colour, rich fat content, and a complex, savoury flavour profile with subtle sweetness.
Since opening the first Macellaio RC restaurant in London in 2012, Roberto Costa and his team have focused on focused on flavour, tradition and sustainability to offer Londoners an authentic Italian steakhouse dining experience.
On our visit to Macellaio RC Soho, glasses of Prosecco are served almost as soon as we’ve sat down at our table. Nibbles arrive just as promptly – plump green olives and a plate of warm Focaccia, served with a lard candle slowly melting into a glossy pool for dipping. It is a clever, decadent touch – the warm bread tearing open to reveal airy crumb, the lard lending a silky, savoury richness that feels both rustic and indulgent.
Beef Tonnato is first among the starters, and wisely heavy on the beef. Wafer-thin slices of Lake District beef are arranged with precision, their blush colour almost luminous against the plate. The tuna and caper sauce is applied with restraint, allowing the quality of the meat to remain centre stage. Capers and pickled onion add brightness and salinity, cutting through the richness. It is elegant, balanced and deeply satisfying.
Beef & Bone is unapologetically decadent. A canoe of roasted bone marrow, trembling and translucent, is topped with finely chopped Marango beef tartare and scattered with jewel-like pomegranate seeds. Parsley brings freshness, while toasted Italian bread brushed with lard provides crunch. Spread thickly, it is luxurious in the extreme – creamy marrow, silky raw beef and bright bursts of fruit creating a riot of texture and flavour.
The Steak Tartare is pure theatre, prepared tableside with deft assurance. We opt for the French style, anchovies, gherkins, onion, mustard, salsa rubra, brandy and an unapologetic extra hit of Tabasco folded into the finely chopped Marango.
The beef itself is the star – dark, supple, mineral and faintly sweet. Each addition enhances rather than masks. It is a masterclass in how raw beef, treated with respect, can deliver complexity without heaviness.
Then come the mains, and here the restaurant truly earns its stripes as a carnivore’s paradise. Portions are generous, almost defiant in their abundance.
The Gragnano Spaghetti alla Carbonara is a reminder that this is, after all, an Italian kitchen. Bronze-drawn pasta clings to a glossy emulsion of egg and pecorino Romano, enriched with guanciale whose fat renders sweet and savoury. There is no cream, no compromise – just peppery warmth and impeccable balance. It is among the finest carbonaras in London, a dish that respects tradition without fuss.
But it is the steaks that command reverence. The 600g Costata, a dry-aged Marango ribeye on the bone, arrives pre-cut and glistening. Cooked medium-rare, the marbling melts into the flesh, delivering an intense buttery richness and pronounced mineral backbone. The exterior carries a charred crust, giving way to a juicy, tender interior. It is bold, robust and unapologetically beefy.
The 700g Fiorentina is an altogether grander affair. This T-bone showcases two personalities: the sirloin side deeply marbled and satisfyingly chewy, the fillet tender to the point of collapse. Seven weeks of ageing have concentrated flavour, lending savoury depth with subtle sweetness. It is steak in its purest, most confident form – best enjoyed simply, with the creamy Marsala peppercorn sauce adding gentle sweetness and the herb oil bringing grassy brightness. Every bite affirms why this place has earned its reputation.
Sides hold their own. Truffle and Parmesan Chips are hand-cut, skin-on and generously dusted with finely grated parmesan, crisp outside and fluffy within.
Honey Glazed Carrots balance sweetness with earthy mineral notes, their texture al dente with a yielding core.
Broccoli, bright and green, is lifted by a squeeze of lemon, cutting through the richness of the meat.
Desserts are less showstopping but perfectly serviceable. The Tiramisu leans heavily into mascarpone, luxuriously creamy with a lighter presence of coffee-soaked savoiardi – ideal for those who favour indulgence.
The flourless Chocolate Cake is rich and crumbly with a dense texture that is helped by a scoop of vanilla ice cream to provide welcome contrast. The Pineapple Carpaccio may well offer a lighter finish for those who enjoy less indulgent desserts.
Inspired by the great family lunches of Italy, this month sees the launch of the Sunday Italian Feast at Macellaio RC Soho. Every Sunday from 12-3pm, an opulent buffet of slow-roasted meats, crisp potatoes, gravies and salads will encourage guests to help themselves, refill plates and linger. The option of bottomless prosecco is also available, as is live music to accompany the decadent feasting. Free corkage at Macellaio RC Soho allows treasured bottles to be shared with family and friends during the meal. The Sunday Italian Feast promises generosity, conviviality and, of course, exceptional beef at its heart.
Macellaio RC Soho
39-45 Shaftesbury Avenue, London, W1D 6LA
020 3848 1030
macellaiorc.com
